Wine of the Week — Spanish Wine Collective

Amontillado Escuadrilla - Bodegas Lustau (Jerez de la Frontera)

D.O. Jerez - Xérès - Sherry

Varieties – 100% Palomino Fino

ABV - 18.5%

As the Spanish Wine Collective’s man on the ground in Andalucía, I was going to have to focus on a classic wine from the Marco de Jerez sooner or later. After a recent mirada at experiments with Tintilla in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and terroir-driven white wines in Montilla-Moriles, it’s time to open a bottle of amontillado sherry!

According to the essential book Jerez, Manzanilla and Montilla: Vinos Tradicionales de Andalucia by Jesús Barquín and Peter Liem (Abalom Books, 2021), an amontillado is essentially a fino or manzanilla, that has been aged for some years under the velo de flor (the film of yeasty foam that grows on the surface of the wine), before a second crianza for a further extended period.

It is said that an amontillado is a wine with two lives: a biological childhood ageing under flor, followed by an oxidative adulthood after the flor has died naturally or been killed off by fortifying the wine to 17 or 18 degrees of alcohol.

Amontillado means ‘Montilla-like’ or ‘made in the Montilla way’, suggesting that this style originated in wines made in the vineyards in that region of Córdoba. However, some sherry experts suggest that amontillado-type wines may have emerged naturally in the ‘sherry triangle’ as the flor grew on some wines and not others.

By regulation, amontillados have to spend at least two years under flor although some will age biologically from three to eight years. Following this, most amontillados will spend a longer time in the oxidative crianza phase, particularly the oldest examples. It’s the oxidative ageing that gives an amontillado its darker colour and enhances its concentration and complexity.

Lustau’s Amontillado Escuadrilla has been aged under flor for four years, before eight years of oxidative crianza.

Appearance: Dark amber with hints of copper and gold.

Nose: There’s a tension between the yeasty brininess of the wine’s youth, and a warmer sweetness from the long ageing. There are notes of orange marmalade, dried citrus peel, honey, caramelised nuts and almonds.

Palate: Dry, smooth and refined. The sweet dried fruit and citrus flavours are integrated with some refreshing acidity, salinity and a touch of bitterness. The finish is long, warming and slightly spicy.

If you are new to amontillado, this is a classic Jerez style. Try it with cheeses and cured meats. A perfect aperitivo or one for the sobremesa after eating.

If you like this amontillado style and want to go deeper, try the extraordinary Lustau Amontillado VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry – a wine with at least 30 years of ageing). Created from sacas from the oldest solera casks, this is a serious wine with enormous complexity. Probably a very occasional purchase, but once you have tried a VORS sherry you will understand why they are amongst the most highly-rated wines of Spain.