Wine of the Week — Spanish Wine Collective

3 Miradas Cerro Macho, Sierra de Montilla, 2018

Bodegas Alvear (Montilla, Córdoba)

D.O.P. Montilla-Moriles

Varieties – 100% Pedro Ximénez

ABV - 13%

€11,15 from La Bodega de Santa Marina (Badajoz)

Alvear, founded in 1729, is the oldest bodega in Andalucía. Best known for its renowned and highly-rated sweet Pedro Ximénez de Sacristía and other aged wines from its old soleras, Alvear also makes traditional styles like Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado and Oloroso.

Over a decade ago Alvear began a collaboration with Envínate, a group of adventurous young Spanish winemakers. The partnership began with the Palacio Quemado winery in Extremadura (part of the D.O. Ribera del Guadiana).

The collaboration with Envínate in Montilla has parallels with recent developments in the ‘sherry triangle’: bodegas and winemakers creating unfortified terroir-driven seco white wines aged biologically under flor. Although the Marco de Jerez and Montilla share the same type of chalky limestone soils that are known locally as albariza, the dominant grape varieties are different: Palomino in the former and Pedro Ximénez in Montilla-Moriles.

The 3 Miradas project, which started in 2016, aims to give expression to the distinct terroirs in Montilla (in particular those of the Zona de Calidad Superior located in the higher altitude zones of Moriles Altos and the Sierra de Montilla) and produce wines that focus on the vineyard rather than the traditional ageing systems of the bodega.

The winemakers envision each mirada (meaning a look or gaze) as an interpretation of specific parcelas reflecting their soil, climate, orientation and elevation. The full range of seven 3 Miradas wines can be viewed on the Bodegas Alvear website.

3 Miradas Vino De Pueblo

3 Miradas Cerro Macho

3 Miradas Viña de Antoñín

3 Miradas Viña de Antoñín (Skin Contact)

3 Miradas Paraje De Riofrío Alto

3 Miradas El Garrotal

3 Miradas Ladera De Benavente

The entry-level wine in the series, currently the 3 Miradas Vino De Pueblo 2020, a blend from grapes from different plots, is well worth seeking out. I found it in a vinoteca in Córdoba last year, and this led me to explore more wines from the project.

But the focus here is on the 3 Miradas Cerro Macho 2018, made with old-vine Pedro Ximénez from two parcelas at 601m with a southwest orientation. These plots have the highest altitude of the vineyards which are part of the Alvear-Envínate project, and are organically farmed without pesticides.

The grapes are harvested by hand, pressed in whole clusters without destemming before fermentation with indigenous yeasts in tinaja-style concrete vats.

The wine then rests for eight months in tinajas under flor before being bottled without fining or filtration.

Appearance: Deep gold.

Nose: Sweet primary aromas of pineapple, quince and stewed apple. Hints of honey, aniseed, mint and fennel.

Palate: Textured with lively acidity. There are notes of citrus, green olives and white pepper. The finish is clean, dry, mineral and slightly saline.

Finally, the label design deserves a mention. As well as the ‘3’ of the 3 Miradas, can you also see the two eyes giving you a ‘mirada’?