Wine of the week
Chris Lynch reminisces about a visit to Haro and pulls a top modern Rioja from his cellar.
Honorable 2017 (Gómez Cruzado)
DOCa Rioja
Varieties: Tempranillo with some Garnacha and Graciano
ABV: 15%
£26 at The Wine Society
€26.50 at Decántalo (2019 vintage)
A few years ago, I was fortunate enough to be staying in the town of Haro in La Rioja. Visiting the Barrio de la Estación is a must, as one can hit all the key names without moving very far. This compact area of wineries, built around the station, has a fascinating history which is well worth reading, especially when you find out that it includes French winemakers coming to La Rioja to buy wine. But I’ll leave you to do your own research.
My schedule that day was a 10am start at R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, followed by a noon appointment at Gómez Cruzado, before catching the 5:11pm train to Logroño. Anyone who knows Rioja wine will acknowledge that this was going to be a fine day.
After a mesmerising visit to Tondonia that will stay with me forever, I took great joy in informing them that my next appointment was “over the road at Gómez Cruzado.” I was a little smug to say the least!
I was warmly greeted by Mikel Ruiz De Viñaspre, head of hospitality and wine tourism. He’s simply one of the best in the business and led me through a tasting session on what was a wonderful early afternoon in La Rioja. Ever since, I’ve always recommended him and Gómez Cruzado to anyone visiting La Rioja.
I was knocked out by their range, from the classic stuff to the Selección Terroir limited edition of village wines. But hands down, my favourite of the bodega was a red wine called Cerro Las Cuevas.
Sadly, given my modest cellar, this week it wasn’t to be. But surely, I wouldn’t have written this if I didn’t have something up my sleeve. Drumroll please … I pulled out an Honorable, helping me relive my Haro trip and providing me with my wine of the week.
Anyway, you’re expecting some words about the wine, so here goes. In the glass it looks deep and inviting. It’s rich purple and dark red, and still looking youthful.
Giving it a sniff, there’s dark cherries and some plums and stewed fruit in there. There’s also a distinct aroma of a favourite childhood sweet of mine, Barker & Dobson’s Blackcurrant and Liquorice.
I take a slurp and it’s quite modern, giving clean fruit and very well-integrated oak. It’s crisp even, with lots of fresh red berries and good acidity. This is a fragrant wine for sure that is giving me some green peppercorn. I know 2017 was a tricky year in La Rioja, but you’d never know it here. This wine takes me right back to that special afternoon in Haro.
Oh, and by the way, I did make that 5:11pm train to Logroño.