Looking back at ‘23 with Phil

The collective looking back in Toro

To kick off 2024, each of the Collective is going to look back at their favourite wines of the year and share them with you. Up first is Madrid’s very own Phil Mugford!

Vagabond Chardonnay 2022

Ok, so this strictly isn't a Spanish wine. That said, it is made by a Spaniard. José Quintana is the cousin of Curro Barreño; he of Fedellos (Galicia) and Ca di Mat (Madrid) fame. Vagabond source their grapes from Clayhill in Essex along with vineyards in Oxfordshire & Sussex. Befitting a wine made in a bar in the old Battersea Power Station I found his Chardonnay to be electric. Quite a revelation, in fact, and the wine that convinced me that English white wine has to be taken seriously. Great typicity and a vibrant spine. José thinks this will age beautifully although commercial pressures restrict them from ageing it before release. I hope our UK followers get the chance to try it!

Licinia 2013

With Gredos garnacha throwing shade over practically the entire Madrid region I thought it time to give some love to Madrid's lesser known south-east sub zone, arbitrarily known as Arganda.

Víctor Algora's Licinia Is a full-bodied red that highlights this part of the region's ability to blend Tempranillo with French varieties, principally Cabernet Sauvignon, to produce a truly age worthy red. I drank the 2013 early in the year and while wonderfully velvety on the palate it clearly had many more years in its locker. The '17 is now on the market and at less than €25 it's a superb buy.