Massuria, a superbly crafted Mencía from the Camino de Santiago
Winery: Bodega y Viñedos Mas Asturias
Oenologist: Jose Mas Asturias
Appellation: D.O. Bierzo
Location: Villafranca del Bierzo, Castilla y León.
Wine: Massuria 2014 Mencía, 14% alc.vol.
It was back in 2018 in Bagos, Pontevedra’s premier wine-spot, that I first encountered the wine of José Mas Asturias. The Italian-looking name Massuria immediately caught my eye and I swiftly asked my tocayo (namesake) Adrián Guerra to pour me a glass. Adrián went on to explain that the winemaker in question was one of the most respected viticultores in El Bierzo, graduating at the turn of the century from L’Institut Agro Montpellier. After that he worked with the renowned Moueix family in Bordeaux and South Africa before finally returning home to Spain to set up Bodega y Viñedos Mas Asturias in 2005.
With a total production of around 15,000 bottles a year, José farms four hectares over fourteen plots, all his own. We’re talking about uncloned Mencía bush vines, planted between 1912 and 1970 and farmed organically without the use of herbicides, pesticides or anything systemic, only copper and sulphur to control fungal diseases.
At Bagos we were tasting the 2014, a tough year that started out VERY rainy and ended up quite dry with moderate temperatures till the end of June when calamity struck with a hail storm affecting one third of his plots. Summer continued with moderate temperatures and the odd downpour keeping the application of copper and sulphur to only one or two ‘manos’ or hands. Harvest got underway at the end of September with the grapes in optimum condition, with good acidity levels and phenolic ripeness on the right side overripe.
Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation took place in concrete tanks and stainless steel vats, then 12 months in 225L French oak barrels, 20% of them new, the rest just two to three vintages old. After this the wine spent another six months back in concrete and a further two years in the bottle before being released. Massuria 2014 is a wine with fantastic ageing potential 2018-2040, with decanting recommended.
Unsurprisingly, the Bordeaux influence shows. Beautiful light ruby colour with the varietal oxidative touch which I have to say isn’t the slightest bit off-putting. Aromas are complex with red berries, some liquorish, green walnut and peppermint. Fresh in the mouth but with a powerful finish making it an incredibly elegant wine, ‘de corte clásico’ as they say here.
Sometimes the best things in life can truly happen on the spur of the moment! In March 2019 I was finally able to meet José as I was in town (Villafranca del Bierzo) with two winelovers from Montreal. I called him to introduce myself, saying we were in the area and had been taking my clients to meet like-minded souls such as Nacho León, Pipo Valle, Verónica Ortega, César Márquez and Grégory Mengoba. ‘Why don’t you pop over now?’ was the response. This we did, enjoying our flying visit with José immensely.
Massuria 2014 and later vintages are available from Decántalo from around €25.