Wine of the Week
Nesta Ourela Branco - Adegas Panchín
IXP Terras do Navia
Varieties: 100% Branco Lexítimo
ABV: 13%
Price: €12-€15
IXP Terras do Navia is Spain’s newest PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) which at the time of writing comprises of just two wineries: Manuel Cancio López of Adegas Panchín and the Sanromán brothers of Adega Sidrón who make the excellent Pieiga.
People have been nurturing vines in this part of Galicia for centuries. By the late 18th century there were well over 90 hectares here. All was going swimmingly till the 1930s and 1940s when hardship in the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War forced many to emigrate to Argentina, Venezuela and Cuba.
By 1955, Franco’s pharaonic hydroelectric schemes were well under way and the final nail was the flooding of the Navia Valley with the subsequent loss of countless plots. Survivors like the parents and grandparents of Manuel and the Sanromán brothers kept the faith, knowing they were sitting on something very special and it’s to their credit that we can enjoy these wines today.
Branco Lexítimo, known as Raposo in other parts of Galicia and Albarín Blanco (nothing to do with Albariño!) in Asturias, is thought to be one of Galicia’s most ancestral varieties. Nesta Ourela Branco Barrica in the nose is full-on white flowers and herbal notes such as fennel and bay leaf. Regarding fruit, I picked up gooseberry, nectarine and some tropical stuff like mango, though not too strident, thankfully. Four months in French oak brings some nice structure to the fiesta, though still pleasingly tart. On the whole an EXTREMELY enjoyable wine this Nesta Ourela and if you live in Spain, I would recommend you get your hands on some pretty quick. They also make a Trusseau (Merenzao) when all the stars converge, which isn’t every year, sadly. Now that one I would really love to taste.
For more info: analopezdiazd@gmail.com