Wine of the Week
Flor de Primavera - Peraj Ha’abib 2020
Celler Capçanes (Tarragona)
D.O. Montsant
€27.70 - Vila Viniteca
Perhaps it’s better to start by saying that kosher wines are made for and by observant Jews. As ‘goyim’ we would definitely not be able to enjoy these wines in the company of men and women that strictly adhere to Jewish law, such as the Hasidic community. That said, there’s no reason on earth why we should not take a keen interest in the renaissance of Jewish winemaking in the Iberian peninsula and in doing so, if it means you can taste a few of these wines in the process, then I’m sure even the holiest of rebbes would give you his heartfelt blessing.
Photo credit: Celler de Capçanes.
The wine I bought this week is made by Celler Capçanes (Tarragona) under the strict supervision of Chabad Lubavitch in Barcelona, the Rabbinate of the Orthodox Union USA and the Kosher Federation UK. Now into their sixth vintage, they appear to have settled on a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Cariñena (35%) and Garnacha (25%). Following a maceration period of 28 days, fermentation is controlled at 24-28 degrees, with malolactic starting in stainless steel tanks and finishing in barrels.
Ageing is over 12 months in kosher-certified light and medium toasted French oak barrels (228l). After that it’s back to the tanks again for another three months before bottling. With regard to the vines, the Garnacha and Cariñena are 50-95 years old, planted on terraces in a mixture of clay, granite and schist soils. The Cabernet Sauvignon vines are around 35 years and trained (espalier). Elevation ranges from 200m to 550m with the harvest and selection done by hand solely by Jewish staff in mid September with a total run of just 7,500 bottles.
Photo credit: Celler de Capçanes.
At 15% vol. it’s quite a hefty wine, lots of stewed dark fruit, chocolate and some Mediterranean wild mountain thyme for good measure. Tannins are silky though muscly. I would have no hesitation serving this with Cachena beef cheeks cooked at low temperature for 48 hours. I would also recommend it with secreto de porco ibérico with a chestnut purée, but would of course not want to provoke the ire of the rebbe. Shalom, amigos.
Click here for more detailed information on what makes a wine kosher.