The mosteros of Los Marines

Bill Bolloten travels to a village in the Sierra de Aracena to learn how the tradition of making mosto is being preserved.

Earlier this month, the village of Los Marines in the Sierra de Aracena (Huelva) held the 24th edition of its Fiesta del Mosto.

*Poster for this year’s Fiesta del Mosto*

Mosto is literally must, or unfermented grape juice. In the provinces of Huelva and Seville the must undergoes a short fermentation to create light and rustic wines. Los Marines is one of the few municipalities in the Huelva sierra where mosto is still made in a completely artisanal way without any modern winemaking processes.

The event enjoys support from the town hall and local businesses, which meant all the tasting was free for those attending. The mayor of Los Marines, Israel Arias, said in support of the fiesta, “Our vineyard culture is gradually being lost and this event aims to value the work of the mosteros and everything it means for our tradition and culture.”

Twelve mosteros (mosto producers) gathered in the Los Marines sports hall to exhibit this year. Local businesses also sold local handicrafts, cheese, sweets and cakes, honey, and cured pork products.

68-year-old Ladislao González made around 32 arrobas of mosto in 2024. An arroba is a traditional unit of liquid measure in Spain and Portugal. One arroba is equivalent to just over 16 litres.

“I have lots of different grape varieties, maybe over 10,” Ladislao told me. “There is some Tempranillo, Beba, Zalema and Corazón de Gallo, but I have no idea what the other varietes are. All the grapes I harvest are fermented together. What comes out every year is different, depending on the mix.”

*Ladislao and his wife Consuelo in the vineyard*

“I make mosto as a hobby, and for love of the tradition. We tread the grapes every year, and that’s another part of our mosto culture. Everyone in the family, including my children and grandchildren, as well as friends, come and take part. It´s a fiesta and a celebration.”

*Ladislao’s son José (centre), with friends Pilar and Carlos*

“Actually I don’t drink mosto, I prefer beer,” says Diego-Santiago Carrasco. “I make mosto to keep our tradition going.”

Diego-Santiago made 40 arrobas of mosto this year with grapes from 40-year-old Palomino vines. He uses wooden barrels for fermentation and ageing.

“These days fewer people feel connected to their vines,” he said. “The tradition is in decline. Young people don’t want to work the land, and they don’t drink mosto either. In Los Marines the tradition is being kept alive by the mosteros and support from the town hall who organise this event every year.”

Gonzalo Arias poured samples of his mosto as he told me about his life as a mostero.

“I have 80-year-old vines with about 10 different varieties, both tinta and blanca, but have no idea what they are. Everything I make is for consuming at home and I never sell it. I keep making mosto because I like to drink it!”

Ladislao’s pale pink mosto was one I particularly enjoyed. It was light, savoury and refreshing.

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