Wine of the week

Chris Lynch enjoys a fresh and elegant modern Rioja from one of Spain’s top winemakers

Palacios Remondo Propiedad 2021

ABV: 14.5%

Variety: Garnacha Tinta

DOCa Rioja

£31.00 from The Wine Society

€27.40 from Decántalo

Following last weekend’s trip to Calatayud, I was craving more Garnacha. To quench my thirst, I reached for a Rioja from the family bodega of Álvaro Palacios. This wine region may not be top of many people’s lists for this variety, but Rioja is a fascinating and exciting place that keeps surprising me. It’s time to cast off preconceptions of Rioja wine.

Let’s immediately deal with the elephant in the room… at this price point, I’d expect it to be a good wine and therefore a contender for my ‘wine of the week.’ At thirty quid a bottle, you’d hope it’s a bloody good wine!

In the glass it’s an attractive, bright cherry red and quite seductive. Giving it a sniff, wow, a lot hits you! A lovely floral, white pepper mix, with dark raspberries and strawberries. There’s a lot of fruit here to consider. And with a little liquorice hint at the back.

Taking a slurp, I was expecting those sweet red fruits to come through, but those flavours subside to reveal a classy wine with finesse and elegance. The body has more intensity than expected, along with great length, good balance and tension.

I’m left with a wine with a lot of freshness that keeps me diving back in for another sip. It’s been quite an easy selection this week. And I, for one, will be returning to the wines of Álvaro Palacios.